- Cladding type: 12mm thick T&G Shiplap
- Framing type: 1¾” x 1¼”
- Building Height: 5ft to Eaves, 6ft to Apex
- Felt: Standard Mineral Felt
- Door: Stable Door (Magnetic catch)
- Windows: 4 x Perspex (2 front, 1 each side)
- 4ft deep Balcony & ballustrading with bolted Safety Gate
- Platform height to your requirements (up to max. 4ft off ground)
Note: Platform supports need to be Concreted into ground. Building price includes support posts and concrete materials. ERECTION COST IS CHARGED AT AN HOURLY RATE—NOT A FIXED PRICE.
The colour samples shown should be used as a rough guide only.
If you require a more accurate match, please contact us for a colour swatch.
Please read the instructions completely before attempting to assemble the building.
Tools required: Spirit Level, Drill & 6mm Bit, Hammer, Knife, Posidrive Screwdriver, Saw, 10mm Spanner/Socket, Step Ladder
1. Attach Ring Beam to each of the 4” x 4” Posts, by piloting Ring Beam and screwing in to post using long coach screws. A post is located inside each corner of the Ring Beam and also at a mid point, where short cross timbers are fitted. The Ring Beam will require 4 Coach Screws fitted per Post. 2 fixings per face, where Ring Beam and Post meet. Ensure the top edge of the Ring Beam is flush with the top of each Post.
2. Once Ring Beam and Posts are assembled, place structure in desired location.
3. Strengthen all posts so that they are vertical and not splayed or out of line.
4. Score a line around each Post. This will be your position where holes will need to be excavated.
5. Allow an extra 2” minimum around each Post to allow for concrete. Dig depth to between 18” and 24” per Post. (If on sloping/steep ground you may need to reduce length of posts to achieve a level Ring Beam). This is acceptable to do but only if you have sufficient post 18” – 24” sunk in ground.
6. Once all holes have been dug, place Ring Beam and Post structure into holes. Pack as necessary to get Ring Beam level. Add concrete/similar material.
7. Leave structure to set for 24 hours or so, subject to weather conditions.
8. Select Floor Panel. It is a plain rectangular panel with floor runners, running in one direction only. Lay Floor Panel on top of Ring Beam and Posts. Check level.
9. Nail Floor Panel into Ring Beam via floor runners on all 4 edges and through centre of floor where required.
10. Select the Back Panel. It is a plain gable end panel with framing all around the edge. Place the panel on the back edge of the floor, with the lip butting up against the end of the floor. While an assistant holds this panel, select a side panel with or without a window/door and butt this up to the back panel.
11. Line up side panel and back panel so that they are flush on the external faces. From the inside, drill pilot holes, top and bottom of side. Only pilot one of the 2 butted-up frameworks. Place 65mm coach screw into piloted hole and lightly tap head with hammer for thread to bite. Using either a spanner or socket, tighten coach screw. Repeat this for all 4 corners, ensuring that all panel faces are flush on the external faces when tightening.
12. Place the Roof Panels onto the building. Slot the uppermost piece of framing into the cut-out at the top of the gable. Centre the roofs on the house and check that they are sitting square on the house. If they are not then it is likely that your base is not level and the house will need lifting/packing in one corner to square up the roof. Try each corner until you find the correct one.
13. With roof square and flush at ridge, nail roof into the framework top of all sides, back and front, with short galvanised nails.
14. Join the walls to the floor with one 3” nail between each upright, wherever possible. Make sure you nail into the floor runners, by nailing in line with the production nails already in the floor.
15. Roll out the felt on the Roof section. Make sure you leave between two and three inches overhang at each end. Fold the felt over the bottom rail of the roof, bringing it flush with the bottom edge of the framing. Hammer a clout nail ½” above the top edge of the felt, on one end. From the other end of the house pull the felt tight and make sure that it is square on the roof nail below the top edge of the felt. On the long side of the house nail edging strip along the bottom rail. Repeat the above for the opposite side. A ridge piece of felt may be required. If so, roll out the felt ensuring it is laying flat and level. Using clout nails, nail seam approx. 3” – 4” apart. Fold the ends of the felt over as neatly as possible and nail into the end of the roof sections. Trim the felt as necessary.
16. Fix the Barge/Curly Boards on, to sandwich the ends of the felt, using two 2” nails each end of the board. Nail into the end of the roof framing. With two 2” nails, nail the diamond finial on to cover the join between the Barge Boards.
17. Using the Perspex provided, glaze the windows by nailing the window beading to framing on the inside. Remove double sided plastic film from Perspex glazing.
18. Select side ballustrading. Place on Balcony floor, butting one end against the building. Pilot ballustrading frame and fix top and bottom onto building, using coach screws. Repeat this on opposite side.
19. Place front ballustrading (incl. Gate) on front of floor. Pilot and attach to both side sections of ballustrading.
20. Nail through bottom framing of ballustrading every 6” – 8” on all 3 sides into floor runners.
21. To Fix Ladder. Offer up to Ring Beam, below ballustrading gate. Pilot and fix with long Coach Screws. Recess pilot hole to ensure good fixation to Ring Beam. Uneven ground may require ladder to be packed
IMPORTANT: Before allowing children to play in the playhouse make sure that all screw and nail heads are flush with the timber surface and that you have not missed the framing with any nails or screws. Also check that there are not any nails exposing their points, especially from the roof.