Extra Heavy Duty Workshop - Apex Roof
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From £1,400.00
- Cladding type: 15mm thick T&G Shiplap including Floor & Roof
- Framing type: 2½” x 2”
- Internal Height to Eaves: 6ft 6”
- Internal Height to Apex: 8ft 2" minimum, 8ft 10" maximum
- Felt: Premium Duty Mineral Felt
- Door: Single 2ft 6” wide with Lock & Key closing. Doors can be located on long side or gable end
- Window Style: Glass, fixed 24” x 24” panes
The colour samples shown should be used as a rough guide only.
If you require a more accurate match, please contact us for a colour swatch.







Please read the instructions completely before attempting to assemble the building. The instructions are intended as a rough guide only and details may vary due to the large variety of sizes available in the Extra Heavy Duty range.
1. Lay floor panel(s) in desired position. Remember to leave enough space around the building for the roof overhang and future maintenance. The base must be solid, flat and level. If supplied in sections join the floor panels together by nailing into the joining blocks on one piece of the floor.
2. Position a back gable end section on the back edge of the floor. The cladding overhangs the framing on the bottom edge.
3. Offer up a side wall panel and screw through the gable into the side from the inside using two of the screws provided.
4. Offer up the other side wall and screw in a similar fashion.
5. Offer up door gable end and screw as before. (Remember to remove the key from the inside of the door and unlock the door first).
5a. On larger buildings gable ends may be in three sections and sides may be in two or more sections. In this case start with a corner as described above, then bolt the appropriate sections together, depending on the next corner. Panel sizes and design will vary depending on the style and size of the building. If the apex is separate it should be placed on top of the gable end. The cladding on the gable top will butt up to the cladding on the gable wall.
6. Fit and screw the truss (if supplied) into place. Fit and nail the purlins into the slots provided in the truss and gable ends.
7. Fit the roof panels so that the overhang meets in the centre. (The roof bearers will not meet the purlins). Check that the roof is sitting square on the shed. If it is not then it is likely that your base is not level and the shed will need lifting at one corner with packing to square up the roof before continuing.
8. With the roof square check that all the walls are sitting properly on the base. Nail the walls to the base with 3” nails ensuring that you nail into a joist, follow the lines of nails already in the base to see where the joists are.
10. Nail the roof to the walls and purlins using 2” nails.
11. Felt the roof using the small clout nails. Start with a wide piece of felt and place it on the roof so that it overhangs both ends and the bottom rail. Secure it with a few evenly placed nails along the upper edge and a nail every four to five inches along the bottom rail. Repeat this for the next wide piece of felt. Place the ridge felt along the top of the shed and nail into place from the centre outwards every four to five inches. Fold the ends of the felt and nail into the end of the framing.
12. Fix the barge boards to the gable ends of the roof using 2” nails to cover the folded felt which can be trimmed as necessary. Nail on the diamond finales.
13. Fix the corner strips (long strips) to the corners of the shed with three 2” nails. Fix the covering strips over any joists between panels with three 2” nails.
14. Glaze the building from the outside using the beading provided. DO NOT push the beading too tight against the glass as this will cause it to crack.
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