- Cladding type: 12mm thick T&G Shiplap including Floor & Roof
- Framing type: 1¾” x 1¼”
- Internal Height to Eaves: 5ft 6”
- Internal Height to Apex: 6ft 7" minimum, 7ft 6" maximum
- Felt: Standard Mineral Felt.
- Door: Double Doors with Padbolt closing
- Window Style: Glass, fixed only 24” x 18” panes
All models in this range can be supplied without windows (no price difference).
We cannot make special sizes or alterations to the specification of this range of buildings.
The colour samples shown should be used as a rough guide only.
If you require a more accurate match, please contact us for a colour swatch.
Please read the instructions completely before attempting to assemble the building. The instructions are intended as a rough guide only and details may vary due to the large variety of sizes and models available.
Tools Required: Hammer, Drill and 6mm Drill Bit, Sharp Knife, 10mm Spanner or Ratchet and an assistant.
1. Lay floor panel in desired position. This panel is either square or rectangular having a series of floor runners running in one direction and the floor boards running in the opposite direction. The base must be flat, level and firm, preferably of concrete, slabs, aggregate or blocks.
2. Position the back gable end section on the back edge of the floor. This section has two sloping edges that are triangular in shape. One gable will normally house the door.
3. Select a side section. This will be a plain section more often one of the longer sections. Place the side section on the floor panel with the lower lip against the edge of the floor panel. Butt up the side section with the gable section so that the vertical corner frameworks are tight and touching. Whilst your assistant holds the gable and side together from the outside, pilot drill a 6mm hole through ONE of the corner vertical frames. Insert a coach screw and gently tap with a hammer so that the thread bites. Tighten coach screw with spanner/ratchet.
These sections will free stand now. Repeat point 3 again with the window section and then with the door end. Please note: You may need to pilot drill at an angle carefully with some sections due to framework positions.
4. Place roof panels onto shed so that the overhang meets at the apex. (Nail the roof truss in place if supplied – subject to shed size).
5. Check that the roof is sitting square on the shed. If it is not then it is likely that your base is not level and the shed will need lifting at one corner with packing to square up the roof before continuing.
6. With the roof square check that all the walls are sitting properly on the base. Nail the walls to the base with 3” nails ensuring that you nail into a joist, follow the lines of nails already in the base to see where the joists are.
7. Nail the roof to the walls using 2” nails.
8. Felt the roof using the small clout nails. Start with a wide piece of felt and place it on the roof so that it overhangs both ends and the bottom rail. Secure it with three evenly placed nails along the upper edge and a nail every four to five inches along the bottom rail. Repeat this for the other wide piece of felt. Place the ridge felt (narrow piece) along the top of the shed and nail into place from the centre outwards every four to five inches. Fold the ends of the felt and nail into the end of the framing. 6 x 4 sheds do not need a ridge felt as the wide pieces overlap. The uppermost piece should be nailed as per the ridge felt.
9. Fix the barge boards to the gable ends of the roof using 2” nails to cover the folded felt.
10. Fix the corner strips (long strips) to the corners of the shed with three 2” nails.
11. Glaze the building using the beading provided. Nail with two 2” nails on overlap sheds and two ovals on T & G shiplap sheds. DO NOT push the beading too tight against the glass as this will cause it to crack. Some models are glazed using oval nails only.