Charnwood Log Cabin - No Verandah
- Cladding type: 33mm thick Interlocking T&G Planks. Floor in 15mm thick T&G Shiplap cladding.
- Internal Heights: 6ft 6” at Eaves, 8ft 2" at Apex
- Felt: Standard Mineral Felt
- Door: Double Hardwood Georgian style with Mortise Lock & Key. Ornamental Hinges & Handles.
- Windows: Georgian style, Hardwood Opening.
10ft wide models have 9 paned window & set Double Doors (offset right or left)
12ft, 14ft & 16ft wide models have 2x9-paned windows & set Double Doors (centred)
- 1ft deep Roof Overhang
- Safety Glass
- Curly Fascia boards
NOTE: Deduct 11½” (270mm) for actual internal floor size
Log Cabins can only be treated once erected, except the floor which can be pre-treated prior to delivery.
Please note the frames will be 4" x 2" timber
The colour samples shown should be used as a rough guide only.
If you require a more accurate match, please contact us for a colour swatch.
Please read the instructions completely before attempting to assemble the building. The instructions are intended as a rough guide only and details may vary due to the variety of sizes available.
Tools required:- Drill, Hammer, Knife, Screwdrivers (Posidrive & Standard)
1. Lay floor panel(s) in desired position. Remember to leave enough space around the building for the roof overhang and future maintenance. It is essential that the floor is on a solid level base, otherwise the building will not fit together properly and the doors will not fit flush. The floor will be in several parts (8 x 8 and larger). A lip is provided to sit on the framing of the adjoining floor piece. Nail together. The runners of the floor run front to back.
2. Find the 5 logs that have had their grooves cut off. Lay them out on the base. The narrower of the boards runs from front to back of the cabin. Screw these into the floor, making sure that they are in the correct position by using the wider boards as a guide. Drill and countersink before screwing.
3. With the narrower logs in place continue to build the walls by working your way round slotting the logs into place until you reach 4 or 5 logs in height.
4. Slot the door into place. Note – Do not nail or fix in any way. Fix the door handles in place.
5. Carry on working your way round the building until you reach 6 logs high beside the door. Then, form a space for the window by using 10 logs with trenches on one end only. The window gap should be 830mm or 660mm on 2.4m wide buildings. Slot the window into the gap formed. The 10 logs between the door and window have no trenches cut. Note – the top of the window(s) sit 1 board lower than the door. Do not nail or fix the window in any way.
6. Build up the apexes with the pre-angled logs and nail into the log below through the angle cut at the end of the logs.
7. Place the 120mm x 34mm purlins into the pre-cut slots and nail into the top of the apex, making sure that the apexes are vertical.
8. The 15mm x 120mm T & G Roof Boards can now be nailed on the Purlins. Start at the back, flush with the purlin ends and work towards the front to form a smooth surface on the outside.
9. Nail the 2 pieces of 46mm x 36mm planed Framing along the bottom edge of the roof boards to fold the felt onto. Similar to a shed roof.
10. Felt the roof by placing a piece of felt on the roof so that it overhangs at both ends and the bottom rail. Secure it with a few evenly spaced clout nails. Folt the felt over the bottom rail and nail every 8cm – 10cm. It is best to nail from the middle outwards to avoid crinkling the felt. Repeat this for the remaining pieces. Apply the ridge piece in a similar manner centering the felt on the ridge. Fold the felt neatly at the ends and nail flat into the ends of the roof framing.
11. Nail the Fascia boards into the end of the purlins to cover the folded felt and then nail the diamonds on to cover the joint between the fascia boards.
12. The Verandah tops (if fitted) are fixed into the top of the Verandah wall. A half cut log without the tongue covers the verandah sides, these may need trimming to length.
13. Glaze the doors and windows using the beading and oval nails which should already be in place. Either trim the nail heads or nail at an angle to prevent the nails protruding through into the next pane.
14. Nail on the angled covering strip to cover the join between the bottom board and the floor on the outside of the cabin.
15. Nail the 33mm x 15mm covering strips to the inside corners and along the join between the roof and the top log.
16. Fix the wooden storm strips to the top board and the bottom board in the middle of the inside or outside of the cabin with a screw and washer. Place the screw in the centre of the slot and leave the screw slightly loose so as to allow settlement of the building.
NOTE - The covering strips or anything joined vertically to the boards may need removing and refixing from time to time, to allow expansion or contraction of the building.